Natural stone is one of the most sought-after materials in modern architecture and interior design — and for good reason. It’s durable, timeless, and adds unmatched character to any space. Whether you’re renovating your kitchen, upgrading a bathroom, or enhancing your outdoor area, choosing the right stone is key to achieving the look, performance, and longevity you want.
If you want to learn more, please visit our website.
At CUPA STONE, we help homeowners and professionals find the perfect material for every project. Here’s how to choose the ideal natural stone for each area of your home.
Kitchen: Function Meets Beauty
Your kitchen worktop is more than just a surface — it’s where life happens. That’s why it needs to be tough, heat-resistant, easy to clean, and, of course, beautiful.
Top Picks:
- Quartzite (TERRA® Collection) – Ideal for luxury kitchens. Durable, exotic looks, and natural patterns.
- Granite – A classic choice. Hard-wearing, scratch-resistant, and timeless.
- Porcelain (CERATOP®)– Perfect for modern kitchens. Lightweight, hygienic, and low-maintenance.
Pro tip: Choose a leather finish for a more tactile, slip-resistant surface.
Bathroom: Elegance in Every Detail
In bathrooms, natural stone brings a sense of luxury and spa-like calm — but it also needs to stand up to humidity, water, and temperature changes.
Best Options:
- Quartzite and Marble-inspired Porcelain – For vanities and walls with a sophisticated touch.
- Granite – Resists moisture and staining, great for countertops and flooring.
- Schist (Infercoa) – Naturally textured and slip-resistant
Maintenance tip: Seal natural stone regularly in wet areas to enhance resistance and maintain its natural beauty.
Outdoor Spaces: Beauty Built to Last
Natural stone excels outdoors — it’s weather-resistant, non-combustible, and gains character over time. From facades to walkways, patios to pool surrounds, it’s the best material to blend architecture with nature.
Ideal Products:
- Stonepanel™ – Easy-to-install cladding panels for walls and facades, with integrated safety anchors.
(See our full Stonepanel™ range)
- Granite – Perfect for high-traffic zones like driveways, stairs, and terraces.
- Infercoa – A rustic and durable slate for garden paths, edging, and paving.
Final Tips for Choosing the Right Stone
Choosing the right natural stone isn’t just about selecting the most beautiful material — it’s about understanding how your space functions and ensuring your choice aligns with your lifestyle, climate, and long-term vision. Here are five essential tips to guide your decision:
1. Match the Stone to Your Lifestyle
Are you someone who cooks daily and needs a worktop that can handle heat, spills, and scratches? Or are you designing a low-traffic bathroom where aesthetics take priority?
- For busy households, opt for durable and low-maintenance options like granite or porcelain.
- For luxury spaces or decorative accents, consider quartzite, marble-look surfaces, or textured slates that add personality.
2. Balance Beauty with Performance
While all natural stones are beautiful, not all are suited for every environment.
- Quartzites and granites are ideal for areas that require both strength and visual impact.
- Limestone and travertine offer a soft, warm feel but may require more sealing and care.
Always ask about porosity, slip resistance, and weather resistance when choosing materials for wet or outdoor areas.
3. Think About Maintenance from the Start
Natural stone is durable, but it’s not maintenance-free. Some stones may need occasional sealing to prevent staining or damage from moisture.
- Go for non-porous or treated options if you prefer minimal upkeep.
- For exterior applications, ensure the stone is frost-resistant and non-slip for safety and longevity.
4. Consider the Overall Design Harmony
Natural stone has a unique way of tying spaces together. When planning a project, think about how your choice will flow with the rest of your home’s materials and colors.
- For a modern, seamless look: try cool-toned quartzites or porcelain slabs with subtle veining.
- For rustic charm or contrast: opt for slates, textured granites, or multicolor Stonepanel™.
Also, don’t overlook finishes. A polished surface adds brightness and luxury, while leathered or honed finishes offer a more understated, organic feel.
5. Make Sustainability a Priority
Natural stone is one of the most eco-friendly building materials — it’s long-lasting, recyclable, and has a lower environmental impact than many synthetics.
When you choose responsibly sourced materials, like those in CUPA STONE’s TERRA®, Stonepanel™, or Infercoa collections, you’re investing in a product that aligns with sustainability values while elevating your home’s style.
If you want to learn more, please visit our website Soft Stone Master.
Final Thought: Natural Stone That Elevates Every Space
Choosing the perfect stone means balancing practicality and aesthetics. By considering how each space is used, the environmental conditions it will face, and the style you want to achieve, you’ll be able to make an informed decision that adds long-term value and character to your home.
Soft and Hard stones? Stone recommendation
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by gmdoubleg » Sun Oct 01, 8:51 pm
Hi all,
Can some of you help me understand the difference between soft and hard stones, the pros and cons of each, and some recommendations for stones after 1k? I'm looking to replace a cheap 3k/8k combo stone I bought to learn on a year ago. Now that I sharpen regularly and enjoy the process I want to buy more quality stones. I currently have a King Deluxe 1k and Naniwa Chosera 1k. Is the chosera considered hard and the king considered soft?
I have been sharpening for only a year now and I am getting pretty reliable with my edges. I have gotten really good at the 1k level but have been having issues with the 3k and above grits. The stones I have are really soft. It seems I am rounding my edge from a bit to much pressure so I've essentially started to do an elongated stropping session at the 3k and 8k levels which seems to work pretty well. The stropping part consists of 15 strokes each side, then 10, 5, 5, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1. As you can guess it takes a long time. If I get a harder stone will it limit the rounding effect at higher grits?
I'm considering getting the Suehiro Rika 5k as my next stone. Is this a soft stone and is the jump too much?
Thank for the advice.
Re: Soft and Hard stones? Stone recommendation
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by Robstreperous » Sun Oct 01, 9:17 pm
Hmmm... Good question. Not sure I can articulate a good answer here. Maybe Ken Schwartz or some of the other experts can chime in here.
For me, I like harder stones when I'm working shorter bevels and when I"m stretching to really get to the edge of the edge. It's easier to feel for me with a harder stone. But, on wider bevels they're less forgiving and they're going to show every little tiny wiggle and variance in your motion.
Softer stones I find are more forgiving on wider bevels, but give me a more muted feedback which makes it a little tougher form me to feel that mythical edge of the edge I'm tying to sharpen.
Hope this helps. Eager to hear what others have to say. Sorry I don't have any experience with the stones you mentioned above.
Re: Soft and Hard stones? Stone recommendation
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by nevrknow » Sun Oct 01, 9:55 pm
Also depends on WHAT you are sharpening. Jap steel or softer germanesque steel? The Rika 5K is an excellent stone. And no it is not to big of a jump from a 1K. this all depends on what you are looking for tho. Do you just want sharp edges or are you more into the nuances of progression? Different strokes for different folks. My limited time in sharpening seems to go from seeing people who can dissect an edge to microscopic levels to people like me who just want an awesome edge that lasts. Nothing wrong with any of it, but it can get to various levels. Do you care what the final blade road finish is or do you just want a functional edge? This can be a really simple question or you can jump down the rabbit hole ( like I have ) and push your sharpening as far as you can take it.
Then you have the hard/soft stone debate. Do you like muddy stones ( ie a mess ) or do you like splash and go ( less mess ) and be done with it? So many variables, we really need more info into what YOU like and expect. One thing I have learned in my short journey is there is no ONE answer for everyone. Need to find out what YOU expect from your sharpening experience to help us help you.
As far as losing your edge when you go to a higher grit stone, I will quote what I read from others on here ( Peter Nowlan ) angle and pressure. You can go from a great edge on a lower grit stone and lose it when you move up in grit. Takes time to figure it out and everyone is different, but you can screwup a good edge if you are not paying attention ( speaking from experience here LOL ). Then you have to drop back a stone and start over. Been there done that.
Tell us more about what you are looking for. Everyone is different. I know people who swear by hard stones and some who say the muddier the better.
Re: Soft and Hard stones? Stone recommendation
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by gladius » Sun Oct 01, 10:02 pm
gmdoubleg wrote: ↑Sun Oct 01, 8:51 pm...but have been having issues with the 3k and above grits. The stones I have are really soft. It seems I am rounding my edge from a bit to much pressure so I've essentially started to do an elongated stropping session at the 3k and 8k levels which seems to work pretty well. The stropping part consists of 15 strokes each side, then 10, 5, 5, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1. As you can guess it takes a long time. If I get a harder stone will it limit the rounding effect at higher grits?
-----
Try lighter pressure using edge trailing strokes alternating sides each stroke.
Re: Soft and Hard stones? Stone recommendation
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by Kit Craft » Sun Oct 01, 10:25 pm
gladius wrote: ↑Sun Oct 01, 10:02 pm
gmdoubleg wrote: ↑Sun Oct 01, 8:51 pm...but have been having issues with the 3k and above grits. The stones I have are really soft. It seems I am rounding my edge from a bit to much pressure so I've essentially started to do an elongated stropping session at the 3k and 8k levels which seems to work pretty well. The stropping part consists of 15 strokes each side, then 10, 5, 5, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1. As you can guess it takes a long time. If I get a harder stone will it limit the rounding effect at higher grits?
-----
Try lighter pressure using edge trailing strokes alternating sides each stroke.
This, do this. +1
Also, getting a harder stone may solve the issue but a new issue may arise. If you are rounding your edge you are likely going over angle just slightly and a hard stone will not be any more forgiving of this, it will just show it in a different way. You will bite into the stone or skip. This leads to blunted portions on the edge and faceted bevels. However, hard stones sure are a good way to build up angular consistency! I use to hate hard stones but not so much now, they have their place along side my softer stones.
Re: Soft and Hard stones? Stone recommendation
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by cwillett » Sun Oct 01, 10:48 pm
The Rika 5k and the Kitayama 8k are so soft that I have to use light pressure or I'll gouge the stones, especially the 8k, which is used with a very light, feather touch. I have a Cerax 1k that I have never gouged and I would consider it reasonably hard for this reason. I use it with pressure varying from medium-hard to light as I progress through my base sharpening. Controlling pressure seems to be something important as my edges have gotten better as I've paid attention to this. I soak both the 1k and the 5k for 20ish minutes or more and develop a lot of mud, which I think is good, though messy.
I go from the 1k to the Rika 5k without issue. For a knife that has a dull, but otherwise ok edge, I spend about 15 minutes on the 1k and have a nice edge that works well in practice, slices paper well, but doesn't shave arm hair. The Rika sees another 3-5ish minutes and I have an edge that will slice tomatoes just fine and will almost, but not quite, initiate a push cut in paper. The 8k and a strop (loaded balsa, then leather) finish things off. The stropping part of things is usually 3 runs per side, 2 runs per side, 1 run per side repeated 3ish times. So, a lot less stropping than you're doing.
Re: Soft and Hard stones? Stone recommendation
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by Ourorboros » Mon Oct 02, 3:31 am
Shaptons, Naniwa Pro/Chosera, & Suehiro Cerax are all considered hard stones. The Cerax not quite as hard.
A King would be soft.
Try paying attention to your body balance & relaxing at the shoulders. I find that helps me lighten the pressure.
Re: Soft and Hard stones? Stone recommendation
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by Kit Craft » Mon Oct 02, 9:58 am
Yep and I think I would class my Rika and Kitayama as medium soft stones.
You wanna see soft? I have an Amakusa from Watanabe that has a surface hardness of 17, whatever that means, but this thing melts if you look at it. It will start to dish after half a dozen strokes or so. You can see it happening. I can still cut a clean bevel with this stone. If the stone itself is not precise then the user has to be doubly so.
As for the op's asking about the rika being soft, I missed that. Yes, the rika and some other stones are softer stones but I still don't think they are "soft" stones. Even the king 6k is loads and loads harder than the king 1k.
Re: Soft and Hard stones? Stone recommendation
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by gmdoubleg » Mon Oct 02, 10:53 am
Thank you everyone for the responses!
Robstreperous:
I know what you're saying, I'm still really trying to feel my way through sharpening. I've learned that slow and steady is far better than fast.
nevrknow:
It would have helping if I said what I'm sharpening. I currently have a Kurosaki AS 210mm Gyuto, Miyabi Santoku SG2 (63 Rockwell?), and Cutco chef for the wife (you can ignore this knife with regards to suggesting stones). As far as my desired edge goes I really just want a clean sharp edge. My OCD hasn't progressed to the nuances of the refined edge just yet so my goal is as sharp as possible. The Kurosaki is my prep knife so all fruits, veggies, and softer meats.
As far as desired stone quality, I don't honestly have a preference. The chosera makes no mess really which is fine and the 3k/8k is a muddy mess after only a few passes. That is totally fine by me as well. My only issue is the 3k/8k stone clogs really quick which requires me to clean before even one knife is done. I'm really focusing on varying my pressure as I sharpen and I think I might be starting at too high of a pressure on the higher grits. I will start with really light pressure on my highest grit.
gladius:
My elongated stropping is all edge trailing and I go through a series of flipping back and forth. It does work quite well, push cutting paper. But I wonder if the stropping motion is doing much on the higher grits or if I'm just aligning the edge since I'm putting such light pressure.
Kit Craft:
The lack of forgivingness of hard stones is exactly why I am leaning away from them. I agree they have their place but for me I think it might be at the lower grits 1k-240.
cwillett:
The Rika 5k and Kitayama 8k are the two stones I think I'm going to get to replace the cheap ones I have now. I've heard great things about them and if I can learn my pressures and perfect the angles they should be great for my needs.
Ourorboros:
I've been focusing on keeping the same distance to the stone and being fluid with my movements. It seems to relax my sharpening which enables me to keep the correct angle throughout...mostly.
Last edited by gmdoubleg on Mon Oct 02, 1:18 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Re: Soft and Hard stones? Stone recommendation
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by jmcnelly85 » Mon Oct 02, 11:52 am
I think any 3k stone (hard or soft) that is more aggressive will help keep things consistent. If it's currently taking over 40 passes to get where you want, you have over 40 opportunities for a bad pass. Although it's a 2k, the kohetsu is a very aggressive stone, a shapton, chosera, or nubatama should also be able to get things done quicker, meaning less opportunities to round the edge.
Re: Soft and Hard stones? Stone recommendation
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by Kit Craft » Mon Oct 02, 1:09 pm
Hard vs soft have their uses for more than just low grit stones. On narrow bevels I will almost always use one of the hardest stones that I have or at least the stone that makes the least mud so that it does not creep up over the smaller bevel onto the blade road, table or what have you. They also tend to cut a more flat and crisp bevel. That is an advantage if you little to no convex on your bevel. If you do want more convex, by all means use a softer stone.
Both hard and soft stones can be used on wide bevels, for me, depending on what I want. I have knives with a large(ish) hollow in the blade road and I do not want to grind that away then I am going to use a very soft and muddy stone. However, if the blade road is more or less flat I can use a harder stone. This is also going to depend on the finish that I want. If I want a nice foggy kasumi over a mirror I might choose one stone or the the other. That is not to say that one can not make mud and get good contrast on a hard stone, you sure can. Shapton SP1k and 2k are hard but can get quite muddy, particularly on soft iron if you use them right and can actually leave decent contrast. The mud is about 75% metal swarf and 25% stone or something like that. I also have the Watanabe 1k and 2k stones and I swear that they are Shapton M15 stones. I have the M15, M24 and Pro stones and all of these seem identical in every way to the AI stones from Watanabe. Hard, fast, can be muddy but are not by nature and leave good contrast for the stone type.
Glass stones on the other hand seem to be all polish, no matter how much swarf I try to turn into slimy grey mud. It just makes the finish brighter.
My only point is that stone hardness is only one factor to consider. However, you are right in that preference plays a huge role. If It didn't I wouldn't have gone through hundreds of stones in the past two(ish) years. Interestingly I have made a full revolution and am back to what I started with...LOL
Re: Soft and Hard stones? Stone recommendation
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by jmcnelly85 » Mon Oct 02, 1:15 pm
I just re read your post and realized that you mention having two 1k stones, do you have a coarse stone? As I mentioned earlier, getting more done with less passes leads to less opportunity for error, although it seems you're looking to replace what's happening on the top of your progression, establishing a proper bevel early on leads to less work towards the end. If you were to go from dull to sharp, where are you beginning your progressions?
Re: Soft and Hard stones? Stone recommendation
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by gmdoubleg » Mon Oct 02, 1:33 pm
Update: ...To my dismay, I tipped my Kurosaki last night during food prep. The Kurosaki is my first venture into Jknives (besides the Miyabi) and the very tip was outrageously thin. I mean the first 2mm of the tip was less than 0.3mm on the spine. Only the very tip broke and I was able to do a decent correction with my 240 grit stone by grinding the back side of the knife to create a new tapper. Is the tip being that thin typical of Jknives? This won't discourage me as I'm now addicted to carbon steel knives but possibly something to keep in mind in the future when I buy more.
jmcnelly85:
Maybe I'll look into getting a 2k or 3k stone with the 5k and leave the 8k for future purchases. That should help with how many strokes are required for each knife.
Kit Craft:
I think as I start using better stones and have a mix of different stones I'll start to see my preference. And I'm sure that different knives will feel better on different stones. My issue now is I want to sharpen all the time and my knives don't need it lol. I'm about to open up to all my neighbors to bring their knives over but I think that might be a bad idea in the long run if my personal time gets scarce.
jmcnelly85:
I have a really cheap 240. Works pretty well for knives that need major corrections but for my other knives I always start on 1k. I think I need a 240-600 stone that will be good for when my knives get really dull.
Re: Soft and Hard stones? Stone recommendation
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by Kit Craft » Mon Oct 02, 1:40 pm
Hah, I sharpen tons too even though I don't need to. I have knives simply as guinea pigs that I sharpen on a daily basis. Also, if you start sharpening knives for friends, family and neighbors be prepared to be that guy that sharpens knives. I have friends of friends of friends looking to get the most awful things sharpened...
Yes, lots of J-knives are very thin at the tip but there are those that are somewhat thicker too. I don't recall my Kuro being overly thin though. Check out some of the K-tip knives. I think I can tip some of those just by looking at them!
Re: Soft and Hard stones? Stone recommendation
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by jmcnelly85 » Mon Oct 02, 2:17 pm
For more information, please visit Soft Stone.
Tips are typically the thinnest part of most knives, even some German tanks have thin tips so tip damage can be common with any knife. Some tips make me very nervous but are so nice for detail work, it's a tough tip toe.
I've been using a shapton pro 320 for quite a while and like it; however, I recently picked up a kohetsu 800 (although it seems close to a 1k it acts like a much coarser stone) and I'm really loving it. It gets things done in a hurry and you start with a really satisfying edge. The 320 is admittedly faster, but surprisingly not by much. Some more popular options are shapton glass 500, pro 220, cerax 320, chosera 400, or any of the multiple nubatama coarse stones will certainly help. I can say with absolute certainty that my overall edges have improved ever since adding a coarse stone to my lineup, as well as greatly reducing the amount of time it takes to get there. Coarse stones simply make life easier.