Hi
looking to replace the blade in my tile saw
size
180 with a bore hole of 22.23
it has a 2.4mm blade and looking for something l thinner and also that will cut with less chips, to cut various tile types.
not sure if it matters but is has 750w motor.
Any reviews on some blades would be much appreciated.
Thanks
D
What wet saw have you got mate, you'll get some better advice with that being known.
Sounds like a VITREX 750 Pro to me, cos that's what I've got. And - blades are quite often tile specific.
If you are cutting thin, soft porcelain glazed tiles (metro etc) then a continuous rim diamond blade would do it....I've got a standard Vitrex blade for them and to be fair, I think anything would go through them cleanly.
Lots of positive comments about MONTOLIT DNA Blade but I think the fellas are using those on DEWALTS / Big RUBI's etc.
I did buy a MARCRIST blade once for my Vitrex, and it literally smashed its way through the tiles, it cut very quickly, but left a nasty looking gash with loads of chippage.....probs using it on the wrong tile TBH but it frightened the hell outa me!!
Hi fellas
It's a mac alistair from tradepoint, bought before I found the forum, lol.!
And it had a 700+x600+ table. Looked at the vitrex, had I found the forum before the purchase I probably would have bought different. What I find is that the blade chips even ceramic, plus I think a thinner blade would be better.
I've bought from ats Sean, some tidy looking drill bits so would quite happily by again if that's a good option.
Looked at the spectrum ultimate blade which has a few good reviews, think I remember 3fall mentioning spectrum as a good blade for grinders so might be good for wet saws.
Looked at the spectrum ultimate blade which has a few good reviews, think I remember 3fall mentioning spectrum as a good blade for grinders so might be good for wet saws.
Not me @Wishiwasatoptiler, not familiar with that blade mate.
I generally get a good quality smooth continuous rim blade with a J slot if I can.
Good quality ones will cut porcelain and ceramics alike.
Turbo blades tend to be too aggressive for ceramics.
Rubi do reasonably priced 180 blades, I get them for my TC180 and find they cope well for the money.
I use Montolit DNA's on my bridge saw tho.
Very high quality with a price tag to match tho.
Not me @Wishiwasatoptiler, not familiar with that blade mate.
I generally get a good quality smooth continuous rim blade with a J slot if I can.
Good quality ones will cut porcelain and ceramics alike.
Turbo blades tend to be too aggressive for ceramics.
Rubi do reasonably priced 180 blades, I get them for my TC180 and find they cope well for the money.
I use Montolit DNA's on my bridge saw tho.
Very high quality with a price tag to match tho.
Thanks for that, I'll look into them, must have mixed you with another thread!
I do find when replacing the blade in a wet cutter if you don't get the same thickness as the original blade then it snags on the guard when trying to push the tile through.....right pain in the buttocks! !!
Thanks for top tip, hadn't thought of that.
Cheers
D
@Wishiwasatoptiler
This is a short video of a Montolit DNA blade in a Rubi DC250
The stone is 20mm limestone, so not particularly tough but this was to show two things, how fast a good blade can cut (not advisable) and how true the cut remained throughout, even tho it was cut too fast,
(U can hear the motor struggle a little near the end because I went too mad!)
I would never normally do this to the machine, but the blade can certainly handle it.
Lesser blades would have destroyed the edges and certainly wouldn't have stayed true on the cut.
I marked two lines, one to cut to, and the other to show it stayed parralell!
I certainly wouldn't advise cuts to be done in this manner normally.
Your browser is not able to display this video.
DNA blade
- Media owner Old Mod
- Date added Sep 19,
- 2
DNA blade
@Wishiwasatoptiler
This is a short video of a Montolit DNA blade in a Rubi DC250
The stone is 20mm limestone, so not particularly tough but this was to show two things, how fast a good blade can cut (not advisable) and how true the cut remained throughout, even tho it was cut too fast,
(U can hear the motor struggle a little near the end because I went too mad!)
I would never normally do this to the machine, but the blade can certainly handle it.
Lesser blades would have destroyed the edges and certainly wouldn't have stayed true on the cut.
I marked two lines, one to cut to, and the other to show it stayed parralell!
I certainly wouldn't advise cuts to be done in this manner normally.
Your browser is not able to display this video.
DNA blade
- Media owner Old Mod
- Date added Sep 19,
- 2
DNA blade
Did you upload that direct to the forum?
Wicked
I might need reconfigure the other album settings I'll take a look in the week.
No worked fine, won't upload to post cos wrong format, but if u go to tiling videos (couldn't find a video section) then add media, create album then upload to your own albums page. Then added to post using camera icon!
????
I can rent a mega-size industrial brick saw for $80 for one day (pick it up Saturday at 5:00 PM; return it Monday Morning at 8:30 AM). It's big (12" blade), powerful, and can bite a firebrick in half with one pass.
For the same $, I can BUY a TILE saw at Home Depot. Max cutting depth is 1.5", so I need to either cut it in two passes OR cut half and finish with a brick set.
Rental Brick Saw:
Advantages: Power, Speed, cleanliness of cut.
Disadvantages: Unknown condition of used blade, have it for only one day and then it's gone unless I rent it again.
Purchased Tile Saw:
Advantages: Keep it forever, no time pressure, I'll have it for bisecting firebricks AND cutting the complicated trapezoids for the top, new blades are less expensive than for the brick saw, save it for future projects.
Disadvantages: Two-step cutting procedure, less power, limited depth of cut.
Any advice? Thanks.
- Fio
You paraphrased the decision problem perfectly
(M) Your decision, as I see it, depends upon your personal life style. I chose to buy the cheap tile saw that I still have because I don't want to have any time pressure. The building of the oven is for me a "process" and not a goal. I will drag out the tile saw again in a couple of weeks to trim some bricks on the leading edge and to build a decorative arch around the mouth.
(M) But its important also to be realistic about a cheap saw like I bought. I didn't find an 1 1/2" depth but an 1 3/8". That 1/8th makes a difference in that the final split leaves a tiny lip. I was able to hide all those edges but its conceivable that in some application the split edge may be visible.
(M) The blade that came with the cheapie had so little diamond dust on it that I could not complete the dome without buying a replacement of a different type. The new blade, from "Harbor Freight" I believe cost between $20 and $30. It is notched and can be used dry or wet. Dry sets up a cloud of dust; wet sprays clay all over your goggles.
(M) The bottom line is to try to see the whole picture as objectively as possible and then make a decision based upon how you want to approach this project. It is a decision that really only you can make.
Ciao,
Marcel
Saws
Gentelmen of the Blade,
A few quick comments on this thread. I have run a 12" Stihl brick/stone saw a LOT, sometimes cutting armour stone up to 8" thick (must be split with chisels and a sledge after). If the diamond blade is in good condition, it's so quick on porous brick that it's hard to imagine. Downside, it's one ornery beast that will bite back so fast you won't notice the missing toes. If you force it and don't just let it chew the brick/stone, it can kick back and chew you.
Once the blade makes contact, you can't alter your line without binding the blade with a whine that you will remember always. It's nearly impossible to prop something as small as a brick to steady it, so you end up using your boot and risking your toes. Nothing other than steel toed boots on this one and a good dust mask and first rate electronic ear protectors. Otherwise, you'll be saying "Whadyasay?" in Emergency.
Far as the tile saw goes, it's a good investment. But, my father had a few good sayings. Two prominent: 1. NEVER buy cheap tools; you'll get hurt. 2. Always buy bigger than you need today, because you'll want it tomorrow.
The point is that there are larger tile saws out there. You can even fit a diamond blade to a 12" mitre saw and rig your own water system if you want or a dust collector. Advantages: full depth, full width cut, ability to clamp down, accuracy, safety. Personally, I can't work with a wet saw of any sort; like Marcel can't see after 10 seconds. Now THAT'S safe.
Jim
Saws
Fio/Stuart,
Brick dust is tough on everything, including you. Sure, the dust will get into the electric motor of the saw, but just be sure to blow it out with compressed air at the end of the session. What I was suggesting, really, was that Home Cheapo and the like often have very good sales on mitre saws, so it might be worth it to buy one only for brick; cheaper than a real large brick saw. Should be possible to rig up a filtre around the motor cooling slots. Nothing will keep it all out, though. Think drywall dust with teeth.
Stuart, my girlfriend's eyes get VERY wide when I mention Lee Neilson hand planes to her, but she's horrified if I think $200 is too much to pay for yet another purse. "But," honey, "it's Italian leather." See, this is fair.
Jim